— 19-06 Ditmars Blvd, on the corner of Astoria Park, near the Ditmars subway stop, Astoria

Eating at this bustling Greek restaurant feels like stepping into Europe. The location is sublime, with a view onto the park from a shady outdoor terrace where families and fashionable couples snack shoulder-to-shoulder on grilled seafood and refreshing salads. It's not unusual to see the chef stroll out of the kitchen to chat with the regulars in Greek.

Some of the finest dishes at Agnanti revolve around grilled seafood, simply adorned with lemon juice and olive oil. One of my favorite Queens eating experiences involves Agnanti's grilled fresh sardines with a side of broiled lemon potatoes ($11.50); the towering "small" Greek salad ($6); and a small carafe of chilled white wine ($9 for about three glasses). The sardines are rubbed with flakes of sea salt and are simply delicious — flavorful but not at all fishy. The grilled calamari are also unusually sweet and tender. And by midsummer, when the tomato season kicks off, the feta-laden salad becomes a meal unto itself.

It is tempting at Agnanti to make a meal out of small plates of food —which are displayed on the menu in somewhat confusing sections. The feta cheese drizzled with olive oil is lovely, as is the platter of grilled Mediterranean vegetables labeled as Vegetables Pikilia ($9.50). Another highlight, for cooler weather perhaps, is the stewed rooster served with square-shaped noodles ($14.50). The tomato-based broth is lovely, especially spooned over the succulent meat and chewy pasta.

In short, Agnanti represents Astoria's finest traditions — an unpretentious neighborhood restaurant with lovely atmosphere and fresh, delicious food. I recommend going on a sunny weekend afternoon, when the lunch-hour extends into golden afternoon light, before people begin lining up outside for dinner. Afterwards, you can take a stroll in Astoria Park, gaze onto Manhattan, and marvel at what they're missing.