37-47 74th St in Jackson Heights, near 74th St.—Roosevelt Ave. subway stop

This venerable Jackson Heights institution has lost its edge. Not only can you can get a better meal at many newer J.H. restaurants, not least the tiny but formidable Dosa Diner up the street, but you also have to contend with Manhattan day trippers. Trust me, there's nothing more annoying than a Manhattanite who's addicted to Chow Hound.

This doesn't mean that you should abandon ship, however.

In fact, you just have to know how to exploit the Jackson Diner's strengths. Or strength: If there's one thing this place does right, it's the Sunday brunch buffet. Nowhere on the 74th Street South Asian strip can you get this kind of depth or variety. There's even a chaat bar so that you can toss your own chickpeas, crunchy bits, soft potato, chutnies, yoghurt and masala mix (appropriately sulfur-imbued with finely ground black salt).

For $8.99 (plus tax and tip — and yes, even at buffets you must tip), you can load up a plate of creamy saag, succulent goat curry and the only good tandoori chicken I've ever had at a buffet. I also highly recommend the Peshawari specialty of spicy, cumin-covered chickpeas stir-fried with chopped potato. Sounds simple, but tastes divine.

See my attempt to have it all, left.