There are plenty of great restaurants in Manhattan, especially for those who think atmosphere takes more than adequate breathable air. These are dealt with admirably in other guides. But hidden among the thousands serving pan-seared tuna, dim lighting and cloth napkins, there are a few excellent dives I've come to love for their Queens-style lack of pretention and delectable regional cuisine. (For example, Curry Hill's Dosa Hut, which specializes in southern Indian food rather than the bland faux-Punjabi fare you find at most Manhattan Indian buffets; and the numbing-pepper-infused Grand Sichuan on east Canal St.) These restaurants, which are still relatively pleasant to eat in, are golden in my book.

Dosa Hut (Saravana Bhavan) (102 Lexington Avenue, between 27th & 28th St.)

As far as I can tell, this place bears no relation to the more famous Dosa Hutt in Flushing, Queens. I know I'm inviting argument as soon as I say it, but I think Saravana Bhavan serves the best dosas in town (with Jackson Heights' Dosa Diner a close second). Their curries are also quite nice — south Indian-inspired and a bit out of the box. (I recommend the delicious black chickpeas, served with flakes of coconut in a light tomato broth.)

Village Mingala (21 E. 7th St.)

The only Burmese (Myanmarese?) restaurant I have ever been to. A bit on the hipster side, but the food is good and it has a decidedly underdog appeal. Turns out Burmese is a bit like Thai food crossed with Indian food (which is logical enough) but with a bit less chili pepper. The noodle curries are excellent.

Mandoo Bar (2 W. 32nd St.)

A small army of ladies in the window mold, fry and steam tiny, immaculate dumplings for your enjoyment. Each mouthful is delectable. I recommend the kimchee mandoo and the fried seafood scallion pancake, but really, you can't go wrong.

CHINATOWN

Despite my Queens chauvinism, I love Manhattan's Chinatown. Flushing is amazing in many ways, but it still doesn't quite capture the quaint zaniness of Mott or Mulberry St. Here are my three below-Canal favorites - a perfect trifecta of Chinatown's enduring strengths.

Oriental Garden (14 Elizabeth St.)

Possibly the best dim sum in Manhattan, with an emphasis on (real) seafood - such as succulent scallop dumplings and towering piles of salt-baked shrimp with their shells on. Not much more expensive than most run-of-the-mill dim sumeries, however ($10-20 per person after tax and tip, depending on what you get).

Grand Sichuan Canal (125 Canal St.)

I think this is the best branch of the Grand Sichuan franchise. (Actually, I'm not even sure all the branches are formally related.) It does excellent spicy sesame noodles (slick with chilli oil instead of sticky-sweet as they are at most mainstream Chinese venues), succulent tea-smoked duck, and a mean Sichuan hot pot. (Though the kings of hot pot are in Flushing, on Prince St.)

Great New York Noodletown (28 1/2 Bowery)

I've been going to this place since it was just "New York Noodletown" (I think it added the "Great" when it was reviewed in the NYTimes a bunch of years back), and it is the ultimate New York Cantonese canteen. (Go elsewhere for dim sum, however, as you won't find pushy-carts here.) The guy seated in the window carves up salty-sweet laquered pork and duck, which are particularly tasty in dishes with asparagus and chive blossoms. Their salt-baked eggplant is another personal favorite.

I used to come to Noodletown with coworkers from a Tribeca restaurant where I worked when I first lived in NY. We were very impressed with the table turnover rate - don't be surprised if they put you at a round table with strangers, and then expect you to order immediately after being seated.