Queens Food in the New York Times

The Washington Post ran a lovely piece on Jackson Heights in March 2005, which still stands as a good introduction to the neighborhood. It highlights some good South Asian snacks, and focuses on a woman who gives food tours of the neighborhood. (Why didn't I think of this??) Read "Cash and Curry" here.

As for my hometown paper, it is my impression that the New York Times dining section has only recently realized the potential of Queens eateries. Since about 2003 the Gray Lady has almost made up for the longtime snub previously accorded to restaurants east of the river, with a flurry of "gee gosh" articles about far treks and delicious bukharan kebabs. Here, I've posted links to the articles, plus a list of the Queens restaurants highlighted in each article.

Some of these pieces are only available to Times Select members. On the other hand, $52 a year for full access to the Times archive is not so bad. (Full disclosure: I have a close relative who was a long-time Times employee, and who convinced me that I was not a good person unless I helped the struggling Times company stay afloat. Plus, I'm a Frank Rich addict.) The Times won further admiration from me when they ran an op-ed recently promoting tourism in Queens: read "Queens, For a Day," here.

Moving For the Food (December 31, 2006)
A former Washington Heights resident waxes rhapsodic about Jackson Heights take-out options. From the real estate section.

Cool Watering Holes (June 21, 2006)
A tour-de-force roundup of cooling summer drinks to be found throughout New York. Totally worth reading.
Queens drinking spots:
CAFE KOLONAKI (frappés), 33-02 Broadway, Astoria, Queens
EL SITIO DE ASTORIA (batidos), 35-55 31st Street, Long Island City
LAURA'S BAKERY (avena, champus), 90-18 Corona Avenue, Elmhurst, Queens
LOS CHUZOS Y ALGO MáS (batidos), 79-01 Roosevelt Avenue, Jackson Heights, Queens

Hear the Laughter, Pass the Satays (February 1, 2006)
A lovely piece about MINANGASLI, an Indonesian restaurant in Elmhurst. The City section ran a separate piece a month later about how Minangasli split off from another local Indonesian dive; it makes for pretty fascinating reading, if you're into Elmhurst especially: read it here.
Minangasli is at 86-10 Whitney Avenue (Macnish Street), Elmhurst


The Silk Road Leads to Queens (January 18, 2006)
An excellent tour of New York's Central Asian restaurants, a hefty number of which are in Queens (Rego Park), of course. Turns out the Bukharan Jews really know how to rotate a kabab.
Queens mentions:
RESTAURANT SALUTE: 63-42 108th Street (63rd Road), Rego Park, Queens
SHALOM: 64-47 108th Street (65th Avenue), Rego Park, Queens
TANDOORI BUKHARIAN BAKERY: 99-04 63rd Road (99th Street), Rego Park, Queens
BAHAR: 82-19 Queens Boulevard, Elmhurst, Queens

Hot and Humble (December 21, 2005)
A lovely piece about nam prik, a Thai condiment mixed and sold at Sripraphai — the best Thai restaurant in the city. See below for the link to a full review of Sripraphai by Frank Bruni. (Incidentally, it is this article which appears to have set off the Times' enthusiasm for Queens restaurants.) SRIPRAPHAI is at 64-13 39th Avenue, Woodside, Queens.

Festival of Lights, Parade of Sweets (November 2, 2005)
This is a great article about the significance of sweets in South Asian culture... All those who have gotten sick of the average critic's dismissal of Indian "desserts" must read this article.
Queens highlights:
DELHI PALACE: 37-33 74th Street (37th Avenue), Jackson Heights, Queens
MAHARAJAH: 73-10 37th Avenue (73rd Street), Jackson Heights, Queens
USHA FOODS: 255-03 Hillside Avenue, Floral Park, Queens

Craving Hyphenated Chinese (September 21, 2005)
I'm not a big fan of most fusion Chinese food, but I do have a soft spot for Chinese-Indian food, which was the main source of "exotic" eating when I lived in Delhi. Think Chinese food plus red hot chillies, deep-fried crispy okra, and paneer instead of tofu.
Queens spots:
TANGRA MASALA (Chinese-Indian): 87-09 Grand Avenue (Queens Boulevard) Elmhurst, Queens; and 39-23 Queens Boulevard (39th Street), Sunnyside, Queens
HAPPY GARDEN (Chinese-Guyanese): 179-11 Hillside Avenue (179th Street), Jamaica, Queens
LA UNION (Chinese-Peruvian): 91-18 Corona Avenue (91st Place), Elmhurst, Queens

Mumbai to Midtown, Chaat Hits the Spot (March 9, 2005)
Finally, an article about where to get chaat, the best of South Asian snacks, in New York.
The Queens places to hit up:
DELHI PALACE: 37-33 74th Street (37th Avenue), Jackson Heights, Queens
DIMPLE: 11 West 30th Street, (212) 643-9464; and 35-68 73rd Street (35th Road), Jackson Heights, Queens
MAHARAJAH: 73-10 37th Avenue (73rd Street), Jackson Heights, Queens
RAJBHOG: 72-27 37th Avenue (72nd Street), Jackson Heights, Queens

Artisanal, Creamy . . . Tofu? (January 5, 2005)
I LOVE soft tofu. My office is near Korea Town, in the otherwise culinarily undistinguished "fashion district" of Manhattan, so I have long known the pleasures of steaming, chilli-infused soon tofu soup with mussels and shrimp. Best is the raw egg the waiter cracks on top, to poach in the simmering tofu broth.
Queens tofu hotspots:

OOK CHANG DONG: 152-22 Northern Boulevard (152nd Street), Flushing, Queens; and 46-09 Kissena Boulevard (Holly Avenue), Flushing
SPICY AND TASTY: 39-07 Prince Street 1H (39th Avenue), Flushing

A Thai Pilgrimage Leads to Queens (November 3, 2004)
Even though Frank Bruni apparently can't figure out how to take the subway, and manages to drive past Woodside to JFK (!), this review gave the venerable Thai institution SRIPRAPHAI (64-13 39th Avenue, Woodside) its day in the NYT sun. Since the article was published, the restaurant has doubled in size, improved the lighting and ambiance, and added a full outdoor terrace. (Read my review here.)

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